I made a video overview of the movement to help remind me of critical part locations. This came in handy because I forgot to mark the striking train wheel positions, so the striking was initially off when I reassembled the movement.
The case is made of polished brass and thin glass windows. I polished each of the brass parts after disassembly, mostly using Brasso. However a few parts were really corroded, and needed steel wool first. After everything was nice and shiny, I used spray lacquer to prevent oxidization. None of the movement parts were lacquered!
I cleaned the dial (which appeared to be some kind of early plastic) with dishsoap and a toothbrush. This seemed to do a good job on the gilded metal parts as well, but there were some places on the dial where the gilding had peeled off. I left those alone.
I cleaned each of the four glass windows with warm soapy water, which worked very well. Except for one thing -- the soapy water makes them slippery! I accidentally dropped one window, which promptly shattered on my concrete floor. I spent the next few hours making a replacement window from a thin lexan sheet (32in x 44in x .093in Polycarbonate Sheet). After cutting the lexan to size, I beveled the edges on a beltsander to match the bevel of the glass windows. Then I polished the bevel with increasingly fine sandpaper (up to 600 grit), then steel wool, then with polishing rouge, and finally with toothpaste. Although replacement window is pretty sharp, it isn't exactly the same as the others, so I put it in the back after reassembly.
The movement showed very little wear of any kind, and each pivot hole was still quite round. I did take the time to polish each pivot by hand, by gripping the arbor in a pin vice and spinning the pivot in a small piece of fine sandpaper. Since this could conceivably score the pivots, I checked each one under the microscope to verify that they were indeed mirror-polished.
Assembling and oiling the movement wasn't particularly challenging, since I had previously made a pivot locator as suggested by Mark Headrick. Once the movement was together, it did require a bit of thought to get it back in the case. There is very little room to maneuver once the glass windows are installed, and I didn't want to scratch or fingerprint anything. After getting the movement inside, I realized that the intended assembly order is:
- Assemble the case (no side windows),
- Install the dial (no movement),
- Attach the movement to dial,
- Install the side windows,
- Install the inner top,
- Install the chime,
- Install the outer top.
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